Mae Uak and BouaKham: two beautiful elephants

What a day! We’ve spent the day with elephants – and what’s more, training to be mahouts!

The Elephant Camp far surpassed our expectations. It was located on grassy banks high above the Nam Khan river, with views across to the amazingly rugged misty mountains beyond.  There were about 10 elephants, all of whom were in beautiful condition and beautifully cared for. When we arrived they were standing in the shade of their feed house quietly munching on sugar cane. Their dextrous (or should it be proboscous?) trunks could feel for the cane and snap it on the ground or in their mouths. Some picked up five or six canes to keep themselves going before setting out on their walk.

Our first activity was to learn to ride the elephant. We learned seven commands (but I don’t think any of the elephants responded to any of my attempts at giving commands!). Then we had to mount. This meant hanging on to the elephant’s ear, placing your right foot on her raised knee and then swinging your leg over her shoulder. You can imagine that I wasn’t adept at this. Luckily the mahout was sitting on her back and managed to haul me up! Then walking around the camp. Just a quiet turn. But when I slid down my legs were jelly, and I couldn’t hold the camera properly to take a photo of Jem, who, of course, swung effortlessly into position on the elephant’s neck.

Next we watched the villagers making paper out of .... yes! Elephant dung! What a surprise!

Then came the long march. This time we were privileged to sit in howdahs on the elephants’ backs. Thank heavens there was a bar to hang on to, as the elephants had to walk down an almost vertical slope to get down to the river. And then through the river. Careful step by careful step, the water shlushing past. To my dismay, the mahout then wanted us to swap places. He would sit in the howdah while Jeremy would ride her. Dear Bouakham, what a patient animal she was, never hurried, never unsure, never frisky, just quietly plodding along. OF course, Jem insisted that I should take a turn too. Goaded on by my ever-confident spouse I slipped into position and rode her home, through the river, up the bank, through the village. There were so many tempting branches to stop at, and a treat of a huge hunk of banana tree to much on offered by a helpful villager. Finally we made it back to the camp.

Phew. Lunch. Delicious. Views of the river and another elephant fording the water.

Then (how can I get out of this? I wondered) Bathing the elephants! We each clambered aboard our elephant. I told myself firmly that a happy mahout is a happy elephant, and tried to relax.If only there was something to hand on to apart from a few bristles. Mae Uak lumbered off to the path, leading the bunch. As she slowly solidly made her way down the bank, I tried to relax and lean back. The mahout gave me a reassuring pat on the back. And then we were standing at the water’s edge – and then walking right into the river, with Mae Uak slurping up great gulps of water with her trunk. And then Mae Uak lay down in the water. And I was supposed to scrub her. Not sure how, but I stayed on her neck as she submerged herself right under. Whoosh up came her trunk and sprayed out a fountain.

And then we slid off on to the bank, and waved the elephants good-bye as they forded the river again and set off into the jungle for their evening rest and forage.

What an amazing privilege to spend such a day with these calm and gentle animals.

For more photos check out: https://picasaweb.google.com/Goldenholm/GoldenholmMahouts?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCPTmm7P_sqrxwQE&feat=directlink